My spirits were soaring high the day we reached Bandhavgarh
as I was going to experience the joy of being a part of a safari for the very
first time! Our safari was scheduled to start at 3:00 p.m. sharp; and thus it
was mandatory for us to reach the Tala gate by 2:15 p.m. Stepping out of a
cottage fit for the woods, we drove on towards the gate and were present to
fill out the identification formalities well before time. Although I had been
advised not to get my hopes too high in fear of disappointment, I was unable to
keep from hoping feverishly that I would at least get a faint glimpse of the
tiger.
*
The gypsy in which we were to undertake our safari had ample
room for 6; excluding the driver and the guide. A middle-aged man greeted us
and a friendship of sorts formed amidst our chatting. We learnt that travelling
and wildlife were his passion and being a part of such safaris was his way of
stress busting. I remember thinking how lucky he was to be able to take out
time and keep his head above the surging waves of work pressure by embarking on
such an enlightening journey. I told myself that this was the kind of life I
wanted to lead; pursuing my passion as well as taking time to escape from
reality. What is the point of making money if we don’t make good use of it to
enjoy the beautiful gifts Life and Nature have to offer?
A Kiwi soon joined us, and our troop being complete, we set
off at a steady pace towards the entrance gate of the zone we were about to
explore. I learnt that the tourist areas of the forest were divided into zonal
regions; Tala, Magadhi and Khitouli. I
was surprised to discover that Magadhi’s gates, the zone whose secrets we were going
to discover that day; opened at the exact given time. My astonishment was due
to the simple fact that Indian tourist areas rarely opened on time; that on this
occasion, punctuality was par excellence! I was soon to find out that
discipline and instantaneous, clever and critical thinking was essential to the
lives that these rangers led.
*
The road we were travelling upon was a crude, rocky and
bumpy one. However, modifications had been done which remained concealed to the
eye. Hundreds of CCTV cameras were spanned throughout the length of the forest;
keeping the activities and movements of animals, rangers and potential poachers
in check; tending to wounded animals and evacuating them from the forest if
necessary, monitoring the tourists’ every move.
I soon realized that being in Magadhi was like experiencing
the purest form of bliss itself. It was by far, one of the best natural
surroundings I’d ever been in! Tall trees with thick, stout trunks lined and
ringed with the wrinkles of age, towered above everything else. On the other
side, there were many clumps of bamboo throughout the jungle, which we learnt
were very important for a tiger’s survival. It, being nocturnal, began
patrolling its territory during the evening and the watch ended during the wee
hours of dawn. It slept away the day under the refreshing shade the bamboo
provided. We were no longer protected from the sun as we had been before and
the rays beat down upon us, sometimes filtering through the closely-knit canopy
which formed overhead; providing us with temporary relief. Spotted deer were
abundant and we spotted a few around almost every bend, some with their heads
down grazing; some gazing at us through the thick undergrowth with their
beautiful almond-shaped hazel eyes. A few ran daintily with a sprightly gait
across our path; and before we could take a few clicks, they had disappeared
into the shrubbery on the other side in a flash. You could never guess the wit
which lies masked beneath that beautiful face of theirs which feigns perfect
innocence; a body of indescribable beauty.
Soon after, our vehicle slowed to a stop to admire the
beauty of a peacock that had crossed our path. It was a creature of immense
pride but this time it had been robbed of the very feathers which it showed off
to tourists who clicked away on their cameras. I never knew that there was a
time when they shed their feathers. A faint glimmer of green and blue was
beginning to sprout from the tail end. However, it still held its chin high;
strutting its neck!
*
During the course of our safari, the gentleman we’d earlier
befriended turned into a second guide and provided heaps of information for
novices like us. Learning that bamboo shoots died when their flowers blossomed
was surprising! The man from New Zealand had the same zeal and gusto, eagerly
listening to the advice and experiences that he shared. He seemed very happy to
see even the most common of animals. To be perfectly honest, the presence of
these two people really enhanced the experience of my first safari.
*
Almost an hour had gone by and there had been no signs of
the tiger’s prowl. A few paw marks had been observed but they disappeared into
the grass a while later. The scrapings of bark on a tree trunk; which was the
sign of a tiger marking its territory and challenging another rival were
visible at a few places. But other than that, the forest was eerily silent;
save for the occasional hoot and chirp.
We also spotted a pair of sambhars; the male’s antlers
curling impressively. I got to know that its warning call for the tiger was a
true call; and in a sense it was very foolish as it called out only when it
spotted the tiger itself, not trusting the other wild animals. It was thus,
easy prey.
*
The gypsy was rolling along the designated route, we
tourists keeping a sharp lookout for even a remote sign of movement when we
spotted another gypsy waiting at a certain spot. One of the tourists there was
proudly showing the beautiful image of the tiger he had captured on his fixed
lens to everybody. That’s when our honorary guide seemed to have detected a
faint movement in the far bushes. Having seen our vehicle stop, other gypsies
soon halted near us. He let out a sound of triumph and I got up hurriedly
trying to catch a glimpse of the mighty beast too! And there it was! Just a
momentary flash of deep orange and soothing black and it was gone! All of us
were celebrating, congratulating each other on having caught sight of the tiger
at this time of the year; through the dense forest. Although I had achieved my
earlier goal, I wasn’t satisfied with this too brief a sighting and wanted
more. And one look at our driver signaled that he wasn’t done yet too. Rapidly
asking our guide where the tiger might be headed to, he quickly reversed,
backed down the trail; and making a U-turn, accelerated at full speed. The
drive towards our destination was little less than terrifying; at the same
time, I had never ever experienced that sudden coursing of adrenaline through
my body. The wind howled around and it was a sheer miracle that the gypsy
didn’t break down. We raced to the place where the tiger was expected to head
towards and I was in for a MASSIVE surprise! Lo and behold, the tiger was
actually walking on the gypsy route in front of our vehicle! It was truly out
of the comforts and shade the forest offered; and it was as if it was taking a
walk especially for our benefit! A little behind us the other gypsies and the
tour canters’ were going crazy, inching slowly towards the tiger, feverishly
clicking away on their cameras. And they had good reason to!
*
The tiger was no less than inhumanly magnificent. Its fur
was a beautiful, rich orange with dark, thin black stripes curling around the
sides of its body working their way towards its face. Its coat was glossy and
lush. The tiger had a white underbelly with steady legs and paws which were protected
from the shrapnel-like coarse stone and pebble-infiltrated sand. And its face,
the face was the one of the most stunning, living creations I’ve ever seen and
will see in my life. The beast’s deep set brownish-white eyes had a certain
gleam and were set apart in a wide orange face streaked with curlicues of
black. Its gait was steady and sure, and although I was worried that the commotion
might provoke it; the tiger walked on, occasionally turning around to survey if
we were still following its trail.
After a while it retreated into the shadows of the forest
and emerged after a few minutes of patient, excited waiting; cautiously prowling
over to the very fringes of the forest. It was within a few feet of our sight! One
of the most blissful experiences of my life, sighting it at such INSANELY close
distance was also the most terrifying moment of our safari! I was frozen with
awe; it had most certainly declared that his reign was supreme. The extent of
his power and prowess was unimaginable. It padded across the sandy path after a
few minutes and vanished into the bushes on the other side of the forest.
*
I was still mesmerized and in a mild state of shock as we
entered the last part of our afternoon trail. During October-November, when lashes of
rainfall had just cooled down the thickets, the animals had plenty of water;
and also the trees and canopies had grown much denser. This was why tiger sightings
were much rarer in winter than in summer when water holes dried up, leaves turned
yellow and frail and bushes displayed bare twigs. I thought about how fortunate
we were; to have seen the beautiful shades of green and yellow of the jungle as
well have had one of the best sightings of the tiger; and that too during our
very first safari!
*
The Magadhi zone’s characteristic feature was that sudden
revelations of wide expanses of open land were made through thick clumps of
trees and shrubs. Pearl white flowering plants, with feather like petals
billowed in the gentle breeze where deer lounged and musters of peacocks were
spread out.
At one point during the afternoon, we spotted the Indian roller;
beautiful when it perched on a bare branch, with its light brown and blue neck
and beady red eye; but simply breathtaking when in flight, it’s royal blue
wings spread out magnificently.
Pools and lagoons sprouted out of the blue,
where spotted deer bent down and quenched their thirst; skipping across the
shallow water merrily. The fawns stayed close to its parents and when it
strayed; as all children do; its parents nudged it back in fear of spying
predatory eyes. As dusk fell and the clutches of cold began to take hold of the
jungle, we spotted the silhouette of a sloth bear; lazing away; outlined by the
final tints of orange sprayed by the sun.
I felt sorry as we neared the exit gates and began the long
drive towards our resort. What an exceptional experience it had been! Not only
had I been the lucky viewer of mind-blowing scenery but I’d also found what I’d
sought: the ultimate predator- the tiger! It had caused me to confirm my belief
that the “superiority” humans showered was negligible when compared to the
impressive might of all things Nature.
*
We rode on through literal pitch-black shifting shadows and
as we turned onto the path that led to the resort; we turned off the car
headlights for a moment. When I gazed upward through the window, thousands of
tiny speckles of light came to life in the inky sky. Silvery stars were
splashed across the sky, glimmering in the nightly roof of starry skies,
undisturbed, and their quiet beauty unadultered by the nuisances and artificial
light of bustling cities. They shone down and lent light to the silent
surroundings. It had been a long time indeed since I’d been a spectator of such
exquisite splendor and I intended to experience joy and take pleasure in every
minute.
*
Small creeks, brooks and fair-sized rivers snaked through the forest and our gypsy splashed through them occasionally. Sunlight glinted off its surface making the water sparkle.
The experience of embarking on a safari in the beautiful
depths of the Bandhavgarh forest was unforgettable; always to be cherished and
looked back upon; a journey like no other.
Very well written and I really loved your writing style!
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ReplyDeleteThank you!!
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